Mike Bent's - Zero Gravity ...

Mike Bent's - Zero Gravity Levitation, Ultimate Magic eBooks Collection

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EFFECT:
You stand in the middle of a room. Without any cover, totally away from
any objects, your body completely levitates 4 ~ 5 inches off the ground, putting you
heads above the competition.
COMPLETE STEP'BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
Performance rights for Zero Gravity are granted only to purchasers of this manuscript if you have
not purchased this effect, you do not have the right to perform it. The signature below validates the
manuscript's authenticity.
Special thanks to Eric/ Steve, and Skip for their always appreciated advice and their
help in working out the bugs. And oven more thanks to Linda for her fine editing,
extreme patience and support.
Television performance rights reserved,
Copyright 1997 by Michael J. Bent, Belmont, MA 02178. All rights reserved. Illegal copying of this
book is prohibited The reproduction or alteration of this work
HI
whole or in part in any form by any
electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, is forbidden without the
written permission of the author. Television performance rights reserved. The book may not be
purchased by any public library, or used for any public display. The author ha$ neither liability nor
responsibility to any person or entity for injuries, loss or damages resulting from the construction,
rehearsal/ or performance of the effect explained in this book. The right to manufacture this product
for sale is reserved by the author,
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
INTRODUCTION
Thanks for purchasing Zero Gravity. This self-levitation is an improvement on an impromptu stunt,
originator unknown, introduced by Ed Balducci in the 1960s and published in Pallbearer's Review.
The Balducci Levitation is a great method for totally impromptu levitation, but it has its severe angle
limitations. With Zero Gravity, the audience sees both feet leave the ground completely. The angles
are vastly improved, allowing larger audiences to enjoy the effect. You also don't have to be as
concerned with the exact placement of the spectators. While no longer impromptu, the illusion is
much, stronger and worth the effort of an added gimmick.
The secret is in the shoes. They are gaffed so that your left foot can come out of the shoe
and act as an unseen lift. The left shoe also contains a metal shell to make your foot appear rigid
during the lift. Your right shoe is gaffed so that it can lift your left shoe. Before constructing the
shoes, carefully read all the directions twice so that you fully understand them. If you don't, you
may go through a lot of shoes.
MATERIALS
A. 1 pair of sneakers, one half she larger than you normally wear. The kinds I use are
Converse® All Star High Tops, available just about anywhere. There are several reasons I
decided on this brand. First, they are classics, and never go out of style. They are unisex and
sized to fit all ages; anyone reading this manuscript will be able to find a pair that works. They are
extremely common, and therefore less suspicious. They have a
flat sole, which aids in the
illusion. The walls of the shoe are thin, giving you more room inside. Most important, they provide
great ankle support, making it easier to perform
"The move."
B. A
2"X
5/8" steel connector available at any hardware store. It should look
something like this:
C: A steel Phillips head screw 3/8" long. It should be able to fir through one of the holes in
the connector without falling through.
D. Strong flexible adhesive, I use Shoe Goop©, available at most hardware and department
stores.
E. A 1' XT piece of sheet metal-This should be thin and flexible enough to bend and shape,
but strong enough to retain its shape. You can also use stiff yet flexible plastic, I use plastic cut
from a children's snow sled, the kind that s just a sheet of plastic rolled up.
F. Thin black socks
G. Flat black spray paint H, Rubber bands. I, Crazy Glue
TOOLS
A. Work gloves
B. Tin snips
C. Strong scissors or shears
D. An Exacto® knife with a wide strong blade, or utility knife
E. Phillips head screwdriver
F. A hacksaw
G. A metal file
H. Sandpaper for metal
CONSTRUCTION
NOTE: SOME OF THE TOOLS YOU’LL BE USING ARE EXTREMELY
SHARP THEY SHOULD ONLY BE USED BY AN ADULT WHO IS FAMILIAR
WITH THEIR USE PLEASE BE CAREFUL-YOUR FINGERS ARE YOUR
FRIENDS!
STEP 1
: Remove the inner sole from the left shoe. This sounds easy, but is probably the hardest
part of the construction. (When shopping for the sneakers, check different pairs to see which has
an inner sole with more "give".) Remove the laces from the shoe to give you more room to get
your fingers' inside. While pulling the inner sole out you may have to make cuts with the Exacto©
knife to cut the glue that holds it down. Be patient -it will come out eventually.
Once the inner sole is removed you should be looking at the dark brown rubber material that
matches the bottom of the shoe.
STEP 2:
Cut a hole in the bottom of the shoe, {See Appendix A), The size of the hole will depend
on your shoe size. The template just gives you an idea of where to cut on your shoe. Make sure to
leave a small ledge at the top as shown on the diagram. This ledge lets you flatten the shoe to the
ground with your left big toe, before and after the levitation. I was able to cut a slit with an Exacto®
knife, them work a strong pair of kitchen shears into the slit to make the cuts. (If you’re having
trouble? with this step take the shoe to a cobbler and explain what you need -he'll probably be able
to help you.) Turn the (oft shoe over and cut out the bottom of the shoe as shown below. No one
will see this part of the shoe; it doesn't have to look pretty.
STEP
3: Looking at the bottom of the shoe, make two slits as shown below:
STEP 4:
Now cut a shell out of the sheet metal, or plastic. This shell will fit inside the front and
sides of the shoe to give it support and retain its shape during the levitation. It’s impossible to give
you exact measurements for this because everyone’s shoe size is different. Appendix B in the back
of the book has a template for a size 8 1/2 sneaker. You will have to make yours larger or smaller
depending on your shoe size. Once you under stand how it works, you'll be able to make
adjustments to fit your size.
Cut out the size you need using the tin snips. Be careful of the sharp edges. Next, file and
sand the edges of the metal so that it can't cut you while you're wearing the shoes. Now, carefully
bend a curve to match the natural curve of the shoe, Place the shell inside the shoe and check to
see if it fits snugly against the shoe and follows the natural curve. Make adjustments as necessary.
Lace up the shoe and try it on while wearing one of the black socks to see how it fits. Make sure the
shell doesn't dig into your foot or cause discomfort.
STEP 5:
Once you're satisfied the shell fits properly, glue it inside the sneaker using Shoe Goop©.
Adjust the laces so that they appear natural, as if they were on a shoe with a foot in it, then wrap
some rubber bands around the sneaker and shell to hold them lightly together. Let dry in a well-
ventilated area overnight. (Refer to the manufacturer's directions for drying times, temperatures,
etc.)
STEP 6:
Cut the metal connecting strip with a hacksaw, it should be 5/8" x 1 5/8". File and
sand the edges smooth. Round off the edges as shown below:
STEP 7:
Paint the strip flat black and let dry.
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